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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.